Furmint is famous as the backbone of Tokaji, but it is a serious dry white grape in its own right and it travels well within Hungary. On Somló — a single extinct volcano in the west of the country, and one of the only regions in the world restricted to white grapes — it produces something quite distinct from the Tokaj expression.

The basalt and volcanic rubble underneath give a smoky, struck-stone quality and a saline edge, while the grape supplies its usual weight of fruit and its refusal to lose acidity no matter how ripe it gets. The result is lush and golden — wildflower, peach, dried apricot, a touch of honey — held together by a spine that keeps it from ever feeling heavy.

Tamás Kis farms organically on the hill under the Somlói Vándor label, which translates as "the Somló wanderer", a nod to his travels around Hungary before settling here. Fermentation is with native yeasts, ageing in used French and Hungarian oak.

Drink it with: roast pork, chicken in creamy or paprika-based sauces, smoked fish, mature cheese, or goose.

Details

• Producer: Somlói Vándor
• Region: Somló, Hungary
• Grapes: Furmint
• Vintage: 2024
• Bottle size: 750ml