This is Szent Donát's most ambitious Olaszrizling — a selection drawn from their best parcels on the volcanic slopes above Csopak, given more time and more attention than the estate's other bottlings of the grape.

Olaszrizling, known as Welschriesling across central Europe, is Hungary's most widely planted white variety and usually its least remarkable. What separates the exceptions is site: volcanic soil, decent exposure and low yields turn a neutral grape into something with genuine density and mineral length. Csopak, on the northern shore of Lake Balaton, is one of the few places in the country that consistently manages it.

Tamás Kovács farms organically here, on slopes looking south over Kerekedi Bay. Vines have shaped this landscape for two thousand years — winemaking is documented from the seventh century and Roman ruins remain among the vineyards — and the estate frames its work as continuing that rather than reinventing it.

Expect orchard fruit and almond with more weight and grip than the single-vineyard wine, and a firm volcanic spine that carries a long finish. Give it air, and use a proper glass.

Drink it with: roast poultry, pork, richer fish dishes, creamy sauces, or aged hard cheese.

Details

• Producer: St. Donat
• Region: Csopak, Balaton, Hungary
• Grapes: Olaszrizling (Welschriesling)
• Vintage: 2024
• Bottle size: 750ml