Samuel Tinon was born in Sainte-Croix-du-Mont, a sweet-wine appellation across the river from Sauternes, and consulted in Australia, Texas and Chile before spending fifteen years working in Tokaj. In 2000 he established his own production there — the first Frenchman to do so in the modern privatisation era.

He farms around eight hectares. Five of them are the Határi vineyard near the village of Olaszliszka, sitting on a volcanic base of fifteen-million-year-old tuff and obsidian overlaid with limestone and clay. The rest is on the loess slopes of Mount Tokaj. Planting density runs to 10,000 vines per hectare, some of them ninety years old, and the work is done without herbicides, pesticides or tractors.

His vineyards are 90% Furmint, so a straight Hárslevelű from the Olaszliszka fruit is the smaller share of what he makes. It is dry, textured and firmly mineral, with the linden-blossom and stone-fruit signature of the grape reined in by the acidity these soils produce.

Tinon's own summary of his approach: "It is not I who is driving the wines, the wines are driving me."

Drink it with: roast poultry, pork, river fish, hard cheese, or dishes with a little sweetness and spice.

Details

• Producer: Samuel Tinon
• Region: Tokaj, Hungary
• Grapes: Hárslevelű
• Vintage: 2020
• Bottle size: 750ml