Tokaj is known abroad almost entirely for sweet wine, which does the region a disservice — its dry whites are among the most distinctive in Europe, built on volcanic soils and two indigenous grapes with enormous natural acidity.

Hárslevelű is the second of those grapes, and the one Judit Bodó has said she finds most beautiful. Its name means linden leaf, and the wines carry a floral, honeyed quality that sits softer than Furmint's steel. This bottling comes from the Kulcsár parcel, one of several the Bodós farm alongside Teleki and Csontos.

Judit and József Bodó founded Bott Pince in 2005 and have grown it from one hectare to eight. Judit trained in South Tyrol before returning. Their farming is organic and deliberately severe: they target around 1.5 kilograms of fruit per vine where commercial growing takes twenty to thirty, and they went several years without even copper, using only sulphur and natural preparations. Fermentation runs on indigenous yeasts with no added enzymes.

The result is dry, tense and mineral, with linden blossom and white peach over a stony volcanic finish.

Drink it with: river fish, roast chicken, pork, paprika-spiced charcuterie, or fresh sheep's cheese.

Details

• Producer: Bott Pince
• Region: Tokaj, Hungary
• Grapes: Hárslevelű
• Vintage: 2023
• Bottle size: 750ml