Somló is a single hill. An extinct volcano roughly four kilometres across, rising abruptly out of flat farmland in western Hungary, and one of the very few wine regions anywhere where only white grapes are permitted. The soils are basalt and volcanic debris, and they leave a mark on everything grown there — a smoky, almost struck-flint minerality with a saline edge that locals have historically credited with medicinal properties.

Tamás Kis founded Somlói Vándor after a stint working in Eger, in the Bull's Blood country of northern Hungary. The name means "the Somló wanderer" and refers to his habit of travelling the country. He farms organically on the hill and works with used French and Hungarian oak for both fermentation and ageing, relying on native yeasts.

This cuvée is his introduction to the region — a blend rather than a single variety, made to show what the volcano does across grapes rather than what any one of them does on its own. Expect orchard fruit and citrus over that unmistakable smoky, stony, saline core.

Drink it with: roast chicken, goose, pork, dumplings, hard cheese, or anything rich enough to meet the acidity.

Details

• Producer: Somlói Vándor
• Region: Somló, Hungary
• Grapes: White blend
• Bottle size: 750ml