Olaszrizling is the most planted white grape in Hungary and, in most hands, the least interesting — the everyday carafe white of the Balaton shore. It is also completely transformed by volcanic soil, which is why the good examples nearly all come from a handful of hills.

Somló is the most extreme of those hills: a lone extinct volcano in western Hungary, all basalt and volcanic rubble, where only white grapes may be planted. What that ground does to Olaszrizling is turn its easy orchard-fruit character taut and smoky, adding a saline mineral grip the grape does not otherwise possess.

Tamás Kis founded Somlói Vándor — "the Somló wanderer" — after working in Eger. He farms organically, ferments with native yeasts, and uses used French and Hungarian oak so the wood adds texture without flavour.

Green apple, almond and citrus pith, then a stony, saline finish that runs long. Serve it genuinely cold; it takes the chill better than most whites of this weight.

Drink it with: schnitzel, fried fish, pickles and cured meat, potato dishes, or fresh cheese.

Details

• Producer: Somlói Vándor
• Region: Somló, Hungary
• Grapes: Olaszrizling (Welschriesling)
• Vintage: 2024
• Bottle size: 750ml